Escape to Vancouver Island

Just back from a trip to Vancouver Island with my wife (she was attending a conference and I wasn't!).  

Sunday

First off, we stayed in the Fairmont Empress and it was our good fortune to be upgraded to GOLD status.  Meaning private lounge, concierges everywhere, room with a view.  The lounge had a wonderful breakfast with great croissants and a very good cappuccino machine.  They also provided lunch nibbles and late afternoon snacks – like mini scones with clotted cream, fruit, meats, whatever you wanted….  

The interior of the hotel was classy and the halls in our Gold Wing were extra wide.  They were built that way in 1909 to accommodate ladies wearing bustle skirts.

Wide Hallways

Sunday afternoon we took a walk around the place, then went out to a great pub dinner at the Irish Times Pub.  www.irishtimespub.ca/ .The food was good and the beer even better, especially the Driftwood Fat Tug IPA.

The view out our window at night was spectacular

Monday

I rented a bike in the morning from Cycle Treks down on the water (https://www.cycletreks.com/) and rode the Lockside Trail to Sidney. I intended to ride the Galloping Goose Trail to Sooke, but missed a turn and found the Lockside to be just fine.  The area around Victoria has an extensive trail network for bikes and pedestrians formed from converted railroad beds.  They are well used, and mostly paved in and around Victoria.  Venturing farther from Victoria the trails are hardpacked gravel (more on this later).  The Lockside goes over water in several places as it heads North out of Victoria, and the wooden bridges are very scenic.

Much of the trail is bordered by woodland, but there are many scenic spots as well. 

Mattics, Sidney, etc.

About 14 miles out from the Empress I encountered Adriennes Tea Garden at Mattick’s Farm.  Staying true to the theme of this blog, I stopped for a cappuccino and a treat.  Rest assured that the caramel nut tarts (center right) are fabulous; shortbread base layered with caramel and nuts then drizzled with chocolate.

It is another 15 miles to Sidney, and I must say that I really like that little town.  It is a very bike/pedestrian friendly, and not at all like the fishing village that I expected.  While, there were several inviting restaurants, I opted for the Starbucks on Beacon Street, so I could use their internet and pay with my phone.  I bought a turkey sandwich, ate half and stashed the other half for a snack on the way back.  

The Lockside trail has several map/water stops along it.  The bike I rented was prototypical of the bikes I saw on the island.  Most cyclists were riding hybrids, with paniers or satchels, or were carrying backpacks.  Presumably to carry rain gear. 

 I found Southern BC to be totally bike friendly.  Even the horse ranch I cycled past (Lochside Lane) had a jump styled after a bike!

Langford

I really wanted to get in a metric century, so upon returning to Victoria I took a turn to the west along the Galloping Goose Trail that I had missed early on.  This trail heads west from Victoria out to Sooke and beyond.  

I rode out to the 16 km marker in Langford (10 mi) and found another Starbucks.  There, I finished the turkey sandwich bought in Sidney, and had my afternoon espresso.  The stretch of the Galloping Goose from central Victoria to Langford runs mostly through wooded areas and along a highway.  

However, there were a couple of sections along water with nice views.  Also, the blooms on one type of bush were abundant and brightened the trail.

Monday night my wife and I went to 10 Acre restaurant near the hotel and loved the food.  I wrote a tripadvisor recommendation for it, (http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g154945-d794960-r211862954-10_Acres_Bistro_Bar-Victoria_Victoria_Capital_Regional_District_Vancouver_Island_.html).

Tuesday
I started the day with a walk through Beacon Hill Park on my way to a Serious Coffee shop.  The park was fabulous, while the coffee shop was a bit disappointing.  A covey of black herons live in the park and they were breeding.  I heard alot of clucking noises, was amazed to see these big, gangly birds hopping around high in the branches and occasionally hovering a bit as they flew to different parts of the trees.  Every so often, one would glide across the pond, looking considerably like a small pterodactyl.

Beacon Hill Park\

On the opposite side of the park I walked down Oliphant street, where most folks pay lots of attention to their gardens.  I noticed the purple steps of one particularly cute house.

In the afternoon I went whale watching on the 5-Star boat. The weather was clear and calm and we saw the J-pod Orcas heading south along the west coast of San Juan Island, chasing salmon. It was my first time to see Orcas in the wild and I was awe struck at the beauty of these massive black and white animals roaming the Strait of Juan De Fuca, looking for dinner.  It took about an hour for the whole pod to go by. Some came quite close to the boat, while we saw others from a distance.  Particular whales that the guides identified were Blackberry (J-27), Shachi (J-19) and her daughter Eclipse (J-41). (http://www.orcaspirit.com/vancouver-island-marine-wildlife/vancouver-island-orcas-killer-whales/item/whales-of-southern-community).

Wednesday

My last day on Vancouver Island and I planned to bike out to the Sooke Potholes, but after consulting maps and considering my scheduled departure at 4pm, I decided to rent a bike and take a bus out to Sooke, then bike back (bus fare $2.50 Canadian!).  I used a different rental place (The Pedaler) and the bike didn’t have suspension, also the tires were a bit bald.  But, given the trail conditions I encountered on Monday, this did not seem to be an issue.

I got off the bus where the Galloping Goose crosses Sooke Rd, near the Sunny Shores Resort and Marina, a couple miles from Sooke.  This is just before the trail leaves the water and heads north along the Sooke River.  I rode a short distance on the trail, and realized that I didn’t have the right bike, as the trail had some steep bits and loose gravel.  Also, it was going to be slower and I had a time constraint, so I turned around and headed back toward Victoria.  I had gone a mile or so when I dumped the bike on a steep downhill stretch with loose gravel, scraping my left leg, elbow and shoulder. Being bloody, but not hurt, I endeavored to pay strict attention to the little warning signs for the ride back to Victoria.

Yeoouch!

The remainder of the ride was thankfully uneventful.  I stopped at the familiar Starbucks in Langford, this time for a sandwich and a Grande Mocha with Whipped Cream and cleaned up my leg and arm.  Once in Victoria, I did spy Fol epi, an organic bakery along the trail that has a patio overlooking the harbor. Again, staying true to the theme of the blog,  I stopped and sampled their fine bread and pastry selection.  They have separate coffee bar and a comfortable patio where one can take a break from the bike, gaze over the harbor and enjoy their wares. 

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Here are links for the Victoria/Sidney/Langford route: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/529272211.

and the Sooke to Victoria route; http://connect.garmin.com/activity/529272203.

Epilogue:  

The trip home was EPIC, full of First World problems, especially considering that I had taken a spill and my arm and leg were a bit sore.  We caught a shuttle to the airport at 4pm for a 6 pm flight.  This flight was delayed 25 min, not too bad, as we had a 2 hr scheduled layover in Vancouver Airport.  Arrived in Vancouver, retrieved bags and headed to customs about 7:20.  An information person told us to hurry through US customs as it closed at 8pm, and was a bit of a walk.  We made it through customs before 8pm, only to find that all the restaurants on the US side close at 8pm, excepting Starbucks which stayed open until 8:30.  Moreover, our flight was delayed 2 hrs, to 10:30.  So I had another Starbucks Sandwich (total 3 in 3 days and I will not complain).

Our flight left Vancouver around 10:30, getting us into SFO around 1am.  But then it took nearly an hour for the bags to come off the plane, meaning that we left SFO about 2am. On the way to Oakland, traffic on the Bay Bridge was snarled due to some repaving on the Oakland side, so we got to Oakland just before 3am.  The icing on the cake was the traffic light just down the street from our house was malfunctioning and would not turn green for our direction!  After 3 cycles, I just ran it.  No one around.  So we made it home at 3am, tired and a bit beat up, all in all a great trip.